Bruno Nada is the son of a vine-grower who, typical of his generation, initially had little interest in farming and left home to study, first in Turin, then in Asti and eventually wound up as a teacher in the Hotel Institute of Ba- rolo. While his interest in farming may not have been extraordinary, his interest in wine was, and he constantly took courses and read books in an attempt to further his knowledge in the field. The more he studied, the more he devel- oped a passion for his home, the Cascina Rombone, near Treiso in the southern reaches of the Barbaresco region.
Cascina Rombone was originally the core of a large property of vineyards owned by Carlo Nada, which was divided among his four sons in the 1950’s. The actual cascina and the vineyards on what is now regarded as the crus of “Rombone” and “Manzola” were left to his youngest son Fiorenzo, Bruno’s father, who continued to till the land, selling the fruit off to local wineries. In 1982, Bruno finally proposed to his father that they build a cellar and begin producing and bottling their own wine. His sole response was “Pruvuma,” local dialect for “Let’s try”.
The Fiorenzo Nada winery today comprises the same seven hectares that Fiorenzo had worked this entire life and the wines produced are only made from the fruit of these vineyards. Fiorenzo has instilled in his son and tremen- dous respect for the traditions of the past, yet Bruno is always tinkering and trying to find ways to improve his wines. To this end he relies on the expert advice of an old friend, the enologist Giuseppe Caviola. Mr. Caviola has since become regarded as one of the leading enologists in all of Italy.
Fiorenzo and Bruno’s range of wines toe the line between tradition and innovation. The basic Barbaresco is only aged in large cask and shows the classic restraint and elegance of the traditional style, while the Barbaresco “Rombone” and the barbera and nebbiolo blend called “Seifile” show the sheen of new oak without overwhelming the Rombone characteristics. Dolcetto has a long history in the Treiso commune, as much of the terrain is at a higher altitude than that which the nebbiolo vine prefers and the Nada’s example of this wine is superb. Few years ago they have also added Barbera, and Nebbiolo Langhe to their range of wines.
ABOUT THE WINE
Nada Fiorenzo Barbaresco, a very small producer. I fell in love with these wines when they first were brought into Australia last year by a very good friend who brings in Giuseppe Mascarello. He was asked by Giuseppe Mascarello to actually bring these wines in. They actually supply people like Giuseppe Mascarello with their fruit. The father did that for many years. When he passed away, the sons took over. They always knew they had very, very good quality fruit on their vineyards. They decided to actually start making their own wine with their own label. Even though the older members of their family didn’t really want them to do it, they’ve stuck to their guns. You’ve got Barolo, which is the masculine side of Nebbiolo, these wines are quite powerful and big, tannic wines that age for a long time. Barbaresco is called the feminine side. It’s the same grape variety. The wines are prettier, more elegant styles of Nebbiolo. You see more aromatics in these young wines. It’s just a lovely … I fallen in love more with Barbaresco than I have with Barolo - maybe because Barolo takes so long to age in the bottle before it drinks really well; and Barbaresco doesn’t. Maybe that’s what it is. I’m hanging out for those beautiful Nebbiolo characters and flavours that I actually have fallen in love with. You get it quicker, I suppose, in Barbaresco because it just looks prettier and more aromatic as a style from the region. These guys have a pretty good reputation, particularly Rombone. It’s probably one of the most masculine Barbarescos. It’s quite powerful, quite full, quite rich, quite tannic. They’re a really good producer. They’ve been doing this for a long time.